{"id":1213,"date":"2013-04-21T10:25:12","date_gmt":"2013-04-21T09:25:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/?p=1213"},"modified":"2017-01-17T15:38:08","modified_gmt":"2017-01-17T14:38:08","slug":"success-lingers-prestige-fragrance-had-another-good-year","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/success-lingers-prestige-fragrance-had-another-good-year\/","title":{"rendered":"Success Lingers Prestige fragrance had another good year."},"content":{"rendered":"

Success Lingers Prestige fragrance had another good year.<\/p>\n

Happi.com By Christine Esposito, Associate Editor<\/a><\/h3>\n

The prestige fragrance market came up smelling likes roses\u2014and many other notes\u2014in 2012, marking back-to-back years of growth.
\nAccording to data from The NPD Group<\/a>, a global information company based in Port Washington, NY, US prestige fragrance sales in 2012 rose 5% to $2.94 billion, which came on the heels of an 11% gain between 2011 and 2010. Breaking it out by gender, women\u2019s prestige fragrances tallied sales of $2 billion, up 5%, and men\u2019s prestige fragrances rose 6% to $936 million.
\nBut it wasn\u2019t a given that 2012 would end on an upswing.
\n\u201cHoliday was nerve-racking for fragrance,\u201d said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group.<\/p>\n

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Goldy, a scent created by Parisian designer Nabil Hayari, is now available in the US market.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

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Why? The Northeast US\u2014which plays a big role in the overall health of the category\u2014and November and December results\u2014which typically account for nearly half of the year in terms of sales, were impacted by events that were far beyond the control of fragrance makers\u2014Hurricane Sandy and the shooting at Sandy Hook Elementary School in Connecticut. Both affected the psyche and spending of the region at a critical time on the calendar.
\n\u201cAll this negative, ugly, sad stuff came about during the No. 1 time for fragrance sales,\u201d she said, noting that fragrance sales were tracking below 2011. But in the last week of the holiday season, the category rallied.
\n\u201cPeople showed that they are still are in love with fragrance, but they waited to the bitter end,\u201d Grant told Happi<\/em>.
\nAccording to Grant, the fragrance market saw greatest acceleration at the \u201caspirational level\u201d of the category, with niche scents <\/a>and couture designer fragrances resonating with consumers in 2012.
\n\u201cWhen you roll them together, that is where we see the strongest growth in the market,\u201d she said.
\nUnfortunately, it was a different story in mass, where fragrance sales fell again, based on numbers from SymphonyIRI Group (see chart below).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Oud for Thought<\/h3>\n

A noteworthy trend spotlighted by fragrance aficionados is the growing popularity of oud or agar wood, which comes from the wood of the tropical Agar (Aquilaria) tree. When this tree\u2019s wood is infected with Phialophora parasitica, it produces a dark and fragrant resin from which the perfume ingredient is derived.
\nElena Vosnaki, a historian, perfume author and editor at PerfumeShrine.com<\/a>, said the strong trend for oud \u201cshows both an interest in the Middle Eastern market buying western fragrances. But it also displays our desire to explore new frontiers and cultures in scent.\u201d
\nThe Fragrance Foundation <\/a>recently awarded its 2013 Indie Award to Amber Oud by Kilian<\/a>, a 2012 unisex scent that features notes of amber, oud, benzoin, Atlas cedar, vanilla and spices.
\nIndie brands like Kilian\u2014defined by the Fragrance Foundation as an established brand that has been on the market for at least two years, is not distributed or owned by a large company and is sold in less than 50 stores in the US\u2014can experiment in ways a broader-appeal brand can\u2019t, noted Grant.<\/p>\n

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Together with Parlux, Vince Camuto has expanded his fragrance roster with Fiori, a summer scent.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\u201cSmaller brands can also take risks and try out different approaches; they don\u2019t have shareholders and director boards to appease and answer to,\u201d added Vosnaki.
\nShe contends indie brands and artisanal perfumers <\/a>are currently those offering the market the most interesting products. \u201cTheir work is also true luxury because they\u2019re not constrained by all the marketing and focus groups which dictate things should comply to the lowest common denominator.\u201d
\nIn addition, since they have limited production and distribution, these niche firms can incorporate raw materials that might prove too costly for the mass market.
\nBut the oud trend is making its way to the masses via synthetic bases. For example, Bath & Body <\/a>Works has incorporated an oud note into its products and Demeter Fragrances launched its own Oud at the beginning of the year. Both are on the opposite end of the spectrum from a firm like Maison Francis Kurkdjian<\/a>, which stocks its high-end scents\u2014like Oud, an oriental with notes of saffron, elemi gum, oud from Laos, cedar wood from the Atlas mountains and Indonesian patchouli\u2014at Neiman Marcus <\/a>and Bergdorf Goodman<\/a>.
\nFollowing up the 2012 launch of Oud, the French fragrance house has created the Oud Mood collection\u2014a trio of fragrances that includes Cashmere Mood (oud is enhanced with labdanum, benzoin and vanilla) and Velvet Mood (oud blended with cinnamon, saffron and copahu balm).<\/p>\n

Garden Variety<\/h3>\n

Industry experts Happi<\/em> spoke with also named rose and violet leaf as trending accords.
\n\u201cThe focus for feminine fragrances this spring in terms of \u2018scent notes\u2019 shapes up to be rose\u2014everything seems to have a good splattering of rose in it,\u201d said Vosnaki, pointing to Eau de Cartier <\/a>Goutte de Rose, Prada\u2019s Rosetto<\/a>, Serge Lutens\u2019 La Fille de Berlin, Guerlain<\/a> Flora Rosa and Balenciaga<\/a> Paris\u2019 L\u2019Eau Rose, to name just a few scents featuring the note.
\nViolet leaf is also popping up too, especially in men\u2019s and unisex fragrances. According to Vosnaki, the commercial successof scents like Tom Ford Violet Blonde<\/a>, Balenciaga Paris L\u2019Essence,as well asthe continual popularity of the unisex scent Eau de Cartier, \u201chaveconsolidated the mainstream appeal of this note.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Adam Levine for Him, the singer\u2019s debut in the scent category, features violet leaf accord. It made its debut in Macy\u2019s.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Mainstream it must be, as violet leaf can be found in Victoria\u2019s Secret\u2019s <\/a>Very Sexy Platinum for Him, Michael Kors <\/a>Suede and, most recently, Adam Levine for Him<\/a>.
\nLevine, the lead singer of Maroon 5, worked with ID Perfumes on his debut scent, which bowed at Macy\u2019s this winter. It is sold in 1.0-, 1.7- and 3.4fl. oz. sizes at suggested retail prices of $35, $45, and $65, respectively, along with Adam Levine for Her<\/a>.
\nAccording to Victoria Frolova of fragrance blog Bois de Jasmin<\/a>, when it comes to the current fragrance scene, \u201cthere is more variety, different effects and more new interpretations.\u201d
\nFor example, she\u2019s seeing \u201cinterpretations of fresh, watery themes,\u201d such as Bottega Veneta Eau Legere, which \u201crefashions a violet chypre original, making it saltier, fresher, brighter.\u201d Another is on display at Prada, as the fashion house is rolling out Prada Candy <\/a>L\u2019Eau this month as a follow up to Candy, which hit counters in 2011.<\/p>\n

\u2018Fashion\u2019ing New Fragrances<\/h3>\n

Couture houses, designers and clothing retailers continue to roll out new scents aimed at their loyal customers, or those who aspire to be\u2014proving that the marriage of fashion and fragrance is everlasting.
\nAmong the new entries are Oscar de la Renta\u2019s Something Blue<\/a>, which has stephanotis\u2014often called \u201cbridal veil\u201d because of its traditional use in wedding bouquets\u2014as its signature note, and Vince Camuto\u2019s Fiori. Camuto\u2019s summer scent, created with Parlux Ltd., features top notes of pink grapefruit and white nectarine, middle notes of sheer iris and freesia and base notes of sandalwood and blonde cedarwood.
\nIn addition, Laundry by Shelli Segal <\/a>now has its own signature scent. Officials at Falic Fragrance Group contend the fruity floral juice\u2014created by IFF and featuring notes like mandarin, plum, peonies and osmanthus with woodsy undertones\u2014captures the true essence of the \u201cLaundry girl.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Laundry by Shelli Segal, a fast-growing lifestyle brand, has rolled out its first ever fragrance this year.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

The Laundry fashion brand is growing quickly, according to Veronica Davis, chief merchandising officer for Laundry by Shelli Segal at Perry Ellis International. In fact, recent licensing accords have expanded Laundry beyond dresses to loungewear and home, making it a lifestyle brand.
\n\u201cFragrance was a natural part of the expansion,\u201d Davis told reporters during a presentation at the Laundry showroom in New York City last month.
\nAlso available in the US market for the first time are scents from Parisian designer Nabil Hayari<\/a>. His complete collection\u2014which includes Only for Her, his debut scent from 2010, as well as Goldy Perfume and Broderie\u2014made its US debut exclusively at C.O. Bigelow in January.<\/span>
\n To herald the launch at the iconic downtown New York City apothecary, a Hayari gown\u2014complete with Chantilly lace and Swarovski crystals\u2014was featured in Bigelow\u2019s window and online auction company CharityBuzz was tapped to auction off the couture dress. All proceeds have been earmarked for the American Heart Association, according to Crafting Beauty, the firm that brought Hayari from Paris to the states.<\/span>
\n New York-based Crafting Beauty plans to expand Hayari \u2018s distribution.<\/span>
\n\u201cWe are running out the brand nationwide and in Canada, but we want to keep it exclusive,\u201d said Francois Damide, Crafting Beauty\u2019s founder, at a recent press event in New York City. And while it was too early to talk specifics about additional retailers, Damide said plans call for Hayari\u2019s scents to be stocked in 50 to 100 doors by the end of the year.<\/span><\/p>\n

Cause C\u00e9l\u00e8bre<\/h3>\n

Famous faces and fragrance houses continue to pair up in an effort to cash in on America\u2019s fascination with all things celebrity.
\nKaty Perry, for example, inked a new deal with Coty to develop her own line of fragrances. The accord also shifts the license for her existing scents (Purr and Meow) from Gigantic Parfums to Coty. More recently, Ivanka Trump rolled out her first signature fragrance for women, a floral-oriental, with Parlux. (You can see a video of the Ivanka Trump launch at Macy\u2019s Herald Square on Happi.com<\/a>.)
\nBut celebrity doesn\u2019t necessarily mean blockbuster. Grant of NPD described 2012 as a \u201cgood year for celebrity scents, but not quite great.\u201d
\nFragrances were innovative, but a bit more novelties, she said, citing launches like Lady Gaga Fame (Coty) and Nicki Minaj Pink Friday. (Minaj\u2019s scent was developed with Elizabeth Arden, which has a special edition Pink Friday flanker due out next month.)
\nIn fact, none of the 2012 celebrity launches reached as high in the ranks as 2011\u2019s Justin Beiber Someday\u2014not even the pop star\u2019s second scent, Girlfriend, which debuted in mid-2012.
\nMaybe pop group One Direction can rise to the challenge. The UK boy band\u2014huge with tween girls\u2014is working on its signature scent with Olivann Beauty, a spin-off of Fusion Brands\u2019 Luxury Fragrance Division. Olivann, which is responsible for all marketing to support the One Direction launch, has kept mum on details about the juice.
\nOther celebrity scents on the 2013 docket include a fragrance from actresses-turned-designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen; Island Fantasy, a flanker from Britney Spears (Elizabeth Arden); Kim Kardashian\u2019s Pure Honey (Lighthouse Beauty), which is due out this Fall; and even Xtreme Couture, a men\u2019s cologne created by UFC Champion Randy Couture.<\/p>\n

A Piece of the Action<\/h3>\n

From EDTs from couture designers to cologne from professional fighters, new launches will be vying for attention in one of the most competitive\u2014and healthiest\u2014categories in the beauty business. According to Global Industry Analysts, Inc., the global market for fragrances and perfumes is forecast to rise from $33 billion in 2015 to $45.6 billion by 2018.
\nSo, who might be lured to join the fray in this multi-billion dollar category?
\n\u201cI do think we will see more players,\u201d said Grant of NPD. \u201cIt is always a surprise; so expect the unexpected.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Road Trip! A Fragrant Guide from S\u00e3o Paulo to Paris to Grasse<\/strong> \u2022 Scent specialist Renata Ashcar will take fragrance lovers on the ride of their lives.
\nAshcar is setting out on a fragrant journey next month\u2014and wants fragrance lovers to join her.
\nAn author and the curator of the Space Perfume Art and History in S\u00e5o Paulo, Ashcar will serve as the guide during \u201cRoute of Perfume 2013,\u201d an eight-night trip that will stroll through the world of perfumery, its history and evolution.
\nThe tour will be held in the cities of Paris and Grasse, allowing participants to dive into the history of perfume and the art of creating perfumes. Ashcar is working with Kea Travel Advisory of Brazil.
\nThe trip, which is scheduled for May 18-26, 2013, includes airfare, accommodations, entry to the International Museum of Perfume and its garden in Grasse, Saint Paul de Vence, Osmotheque and concept stores as well as tickets to Mouline Rouge, shopping and culture.
\nMore info:<\/strong>contato@keabrasil.com.br<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n
Bottling Up America, State by State<\/strong> \u2022 When one thinks of Hawaii, what scents come to mind? Maybe the smell of golden pineapple and sweet coconut? Orange and grapefruit surely conjure memories of Florida. But what exactly does New Jersey smell like?
\nActually it is more like fresh buttered popcorn, cotton candy, caramel, coconut, vanilla extract, peach patchouli and musk\u2014the top, middle and base notes featured in the \u201cNew Jersey\u201d fragrance from United Scents of America, a Hoboken, NJ-based firm co-founded by Sasha Bertran and Samantha Sherwin.
\nThe duo\u2014who met while working for a fragrance distributor\u2014say these fragrances can help people capture a special time and place in their lives; such as college years in Boston or a favorite vacation location.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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In developing the scents, the pair worked with close friends and focus groups to zero in on the juices that would best remind people of where they come from, bring back fond childhood memories and inspire people to travel.
\nThere are currently seven fragrances on the United Scents of America roster\u2014Hawaii, New York, California, Texas, Florida, New Jersey and Massachusetts. Each 1.7oz EDT retails for $58 at boutiques and online.
\nSo, which states are next? Think Buckeye and Liberty Bell.
\nBertran told Happi<\/em> that they are currently scouting out locations in Ohio and Pennsylvania for focus groups.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Success Lingers Prestige fragrance had another good year. Happi.com By Christine Esposito, Associate Editor The prestige fragrance market came up smelling likes roses\u2014and many other notes\u2014in 2012, marking back-to-back years of growth. According to data from The NPD Group, a global information company based in Port Washington, NY, US prestige fragrance sales in 2012 rose 5% to $2.94 billion, which came on the heels of an 11% gain between 2011 and 2010. Breaking it out…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1220,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[228,12,7],"tags":[1201,1202,1203,1204,1205,1206,963],"class_list":["post-1213","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hayari-paris-2","category-hayari-perfumes","category-non-classifiee","tag-artisanal-perfumers","tag-christine-esposito","tag-couture-designer-fragrances","tag-fragrance-market","tag-happi","tag-happi-com","tag-hayari"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1213","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1213"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1213\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1220"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1213"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1213"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hayariparis.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1213"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}